Lay witness to my so-called fundamental existence.

I could have posted a story about my re-visit to Tacloban a few days prior yet there’s such a thing called memory collapse or data file corruption and it was too late when I realized that I lost a lot of my articles and office files from such disaster.

Now I am trying to reconstruct what I’ve written about this main commercial hub in Eastern Visayas. Tacloban City has always been subjected to unpredictable weather, often by-passed and left to grow on its own. But Tacloban has its certain place in the annals of history, the essence of liberation through the period structures and monuments constantly reminds not only those who witnessed the Second World War but also those who only knew about the certain moments of the past in the pages of history books.

Tacloban City, now elevated to the status of a Highly Urbanized City (HUC), is the most important center in Eastern Visayas. It is the regional center for trade and commerce, health, education, tourism and government. The significance of the city is not only observed and noticed at the present time. It’s importance could be traced way back when Tacloban was still Kankabatok. The official seal of the Province of Leyte reflects two important events in the island. One is the first Catholic Mass held in the Philippines by the Spanish conquistadores and priests in the 16th century. The other event is the Leyte Landing in 1944 at Palo with the return of the American troops led by Gen. Douglas MacArthur to liberate the country from Japanese occupation.

I have been presented with a wonderful opportunity to explore Kankabatok. While the new Merck distributor for Samar-Leyte area is being trained, I made time to visit some interesting city spots after the training hours.

I started with the beautiful San Juanico Bridge. This is still the country’s longest bridge of any kind at 2.16 kilometers. It connects the islands of Leyte and Samar, spanning the narrow San Juanico Strait.

One end of the long bridge is in Tacloban City, at least 20 km from the city center. It rises to a height of 41 meters above sea level, forming the letter ‘L’ for the Province of Leyte. After the highest portion of the span, the bridge snakes down to the other side, with the foot anchored in the town of Sta. Rita. It forms the letter ‘S’ to represent the island of Samar.

I used to believe that bridges could spur economic growth to the places they serve. Ferdinand Marcos may have dreamt about the progress when he had this bridge built as a gift to his wife Imelda. But 3 decades after, progress was contained only at one foot.  Economic growth came to Tacloban City but progress never crossed through Samar.

I must say, that the bridge has aesthetic value. The huge arc at the steel-framed section of the bridge reminds me of at least half of the logo of MacDonald’s. South of the bridge and through the arch, it would lead you to the protected waterfront of Tacloban City. The city’s lifeblood is attached with its port. From the waterfront, the daily buzz and economic activities spread inland to the city’s 138 barangays or local units. And in these many units, Waray – the tongue of the land – came into use.

At MacDonald’s I planned out my own city tour the morning after my visit to San Juanico Bridge. The training would end early in the afternoon and it would provide me much time to explore the city on foot.

I decided to make the provincial capitol as the start of my hike. Tacloban, being the capital of the province of Leyte, was at some point the seat of government of the Philippines. The capitol was a witness to that historic event when Sergio Osmena was sworn in as the president of Philippine Commonwealth Government in 1944.

Leyte Capitol is a white building that sits across Plaza Libertad. The structure was built from 1917 to 1924. The charming and imposing capitol underwent renovation and expansion during the term of Governor Norberto Romualdez Jr. in 1964.

Just like the Official Seal of the Province of Leyte, the capitol is adorned with two huge bas reliefs at its expanded wing. One depicts the scene of the first mass held in the islands, that which was believed to be celebrated in the island of Limasawa. The other bas relief is of course about the Leyte Landing. In between the the wall carvings is a fountain at the steps of the building. Huge neoclassical columns stood guard of the entrance to the capitol.

Across the provincial capitol is Plaza Libertad. It is at the corner of Trece Martirez Street and Magsaysay Boulevard. At the the center of the park is a tall white concrete tripod topped by a symbol of freedom in the form a woman with a torch.

Nothing much is said about the park. Its historical importance is still a point to ponder upon. If I google this park, it would lead me to the site bearing the plans for its improvement and landscaping, at a cost of almost one million.

The symbol of freedom is as white as the capitol. But the park needs to be improved and maintained. Compared to other parks in the city, like the Family Park, RTR Plaza and Plaza Rizal, this plaza is devoid of people.

Underneath the tripod is a seal or logo of one of the many international civic organizations. Maybe this group had something to do with the pair of lion figures resting in front of the provincial capitol. I looked up and saw how Filipino the statue of liberty was. I envisioned Imelda Romualdez Marcos on that tri-legged tower, holding a flaming torch under the rays of Kankabatok’s sun.

I walked a couple of blocks along Magsaysay Boulevard and reached the campus of the University of the Philippines. My next destination is the Family Park. For only six pesos, I hailed a tricycle and asked the driver to bring me to the seaside park.

Judging from the set up the park, its an irregularly shaped sloping lawn that connects with two other parks that may comprise the  Philippine-Japan Commemorative Monument.  The entire greenery faces Cancabato Bay.

 From the Family Park, I crossed Magsaysay Boulevard and climbed up the steps and reached the peak of Kanhuraw Hill. Here the wonderful crafted scrulpture of the crucified Christ was erected.

The structure was based on the form of the island of Leyte. One side of the landmark is a map Leyte. On the other side is the Crucified Christ without arms and feet. It’s an artisitic interpretation of the artist Nemesio R. Miranda Jr. The basic materials for this carto-religious landmark were concrete, fiberglass and steel.  The sun was almost down when looked up and stared at the crucified saviour. I took pictures of both sides of the sculpture.  It is said to be 45 feet tall. The base was a good viewpoint of the bay.

South of the crucified Christ is the garden of Maria Kannon. I went down the steps and levelled with Magsaysay Boulevard. I entered the half-open rusty gates of the garden. Maria Kannon was a carved figure, a Goddess of Peace that was a gift from the people of Japan. Maria Kannon or Madonna of Japan to some, was a symbol of peace and friendship.

It was to be my second time to see this gift from Japan. Back then, the sculpture was surrounded with lush greenery and colorful plants. Now the madonna was obviously neglected. What was once a colorful and lush garden has now lost its vibrance. The sacred garden has gone down to wilt.

As I exited the Garden of the Madonna of Japan, I almost stepped on a carved wooden wheel. It was lying on the path that led to the half open gates.

Comparing the wheel to the cycle that is the state of Tacloban, I tried to believe that the city had found itself at the lowest point for such a long time, I guess I was hoping that after all these slumber and flat growth, the city would be pushing itself out of the lows and it to the highs of progress.