Fascinated by the Churches – Part Trois

I’ve been to Boljoon several times now. But each visit is definitely different. This time Bro Bear and I got the chance to visit the museum and took pictures of the watch tower and the adjacent cemetery.

The church’s roof was replaced with galvanized sheets. The shingles (tisa in local term) were taken out and down as part of the restoration program. According to the villagers, the parish is still gathering funds to buy the shingles that would be placed on top of the existing roof.

With the roof in place, the wooden ceiling has finally given protection. We were able to get near the altar and took pictures of the old wooden retablo and the images.

Looking at the retablo made me remember Bro Bear’s explanation of the words horror vaccui. It’s made of hardwood that were probably taken nearby. The retablo is painted in white and gold but were made colorful by several small patterns and in-lays.  The people of Boljoon should be thankful that in spite of several raids and attacks, their beautiful church was spared.

Boljoon now has the oldest remaining original stone church in Cebu. The church is more like a baroque-rococo style, with thick walls made of local stones and lime. Possibly because it served as a fortress during the Spanish colonization, and with the efforts of Fr. Julian Bermejo who ordered a dozen or so watchtowers built as a defense network, the church of Patrocinio de Maria survived.

We had a glimpse of Boljoon’s historical and cultural significance when we visited the museum at the ground floor of the church’s convent. Bro Bear had great accounts and thoughts on the musuem and the church complex in his site. Click Bro Bear.

From Boljoon, we travelled back to the town of Alcoy and visited the church of Sta. Rosa de Lima. Alcoy is known for its  dolomite and reputedly it claims to have one of the biggest dolomite deposits in the world. Dolomite is a sedimentary carbonate rock containing calcium magnesium carbonate with several industrial uses.

The church is found a block away from the highway, slightly elevated and hidden by rows of trees. It looked modern now but traces of the old church remained such as the clover-like window at the pediment, the decorative pillars and its gothic style.  The convent still retains its old form.

We did not linger much in Alcoy for we moved on to the neighboring town of Dalaguete. It was long known before that the St. William Parish church resembles the Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Argao. Dalaguete’s church was newer (built in 1802), but that of Argao is better-planned.

The form and structure of the church (a pseudo-rococo) is much like the Argao church with the facade divided only by four ornately-carved vertical lines that extend up to the pediment. A small niche could be found atop the main arch flanked by windows on both sides. It also has a camarin delos campaneros or the bell-ringer’s quarter, that low structure connecting the church and the bell tower.

And just like Argao church, it has a striking painted ceiling and wooden retablo. It was painted in the 1930’s by Canuto Avila. In and around the church complex are old structures like the watchtower that looks like an elevated gazebo, the old church perimeter wall, the mortuary chapel  (osarium) with some stone carvings and the huge convento.

 Our visit to St. William the Hermit Church (San Guillermo el Ermitano or St. William the Great) was the last stop before we returned to the city. In two days, we rounded up 14 churches in 13 different southern towns.

Driving back to city and passing several town, I realized that Cebu has several jewels still scattered in several areas down south. These gems may have been preserved and protected under the cloaks of faith and the religion that primarily served as a front for the island to kneel in front of Spain, Cebu’s old churches are living reminders of how life was centered on this faith, centuries and centuries ago.

Personally, it was a visita iglesia a bit of spiritual undertaking but mainly it was more for cultural and historical appreciation and awareness, a re-trace of my roots and beginnings as a Cebuano, an acceptance of the past and an enlightenment or understanding of what I have become.

I fully accept the fact that I would never be allowed to get hitched in any of these old churches. But knowing that the people before us had put in hard labor, blood, sweat and life to erect these structures of worship that protected my ancestors against attacks, raids, storms and wars, it is but fitting that at the very least I should come and visit these churches and express my heartfelt gratitude for the life I have now.

Fascinated by the Churches – Part Deux

I was supposed to wake up early Saturday morning of June 13. But I decided to let go of the chance to seize the sunrise in Alcoy. I needed time to rest from the long drive through the southern towns of Cebu.

Of course I was not alone. Bro Bear was in town to share this experience with me. We spent the previous night here at Bodo’s Bamboo Bar Resort. It’s relatively new, built a few meters off from the national highway and located on a hill overlooking the sea that separates Cebu from Bohol.

There may be some parts of the services that the resort may have to polish but I must say it was generally good. The resort has free wi-fi, the food was great but it was served way too long. And the place really is good ”pit stop” from a long drive.

As we left the resort at 10am, I recalled the churches we visited after the destroyed church of Moalboal.

Before one reaches the public market of Badian, one has to make a full left turn to an inclined road leading to the municipio, the district hospital and the old church.

This is the Church of St. James the Apostle. Compared to the churches in other towns, Badian’s own is a bit small. But researchers find resemblance of the now-destroyed Moalboal church to this one. The pediment was supported by four massive columns, two of which have intricate floral carvings.

Except for the tiles of the roof, much of this church’s upper section was preserved.  It has no transept but the nave is clearly divided into three parts by two rows of columns that support a loft and the pulpit. The intricate design of the canopy of the pulpit, still remains at the right side of the nave.

We headed down to Alegria. A mass was being held for the dead so Bro Bear and I had to be content in taking a couple of pictures from outside. The structure seemed to be as old as that of Badian or of Dumanjug, having built in 1857 but nonetheless interesting.

 

It had a single central tower as the church’s facade. There are three arches from the base of the belfry itself plus the three arches that serve as the entrance to the church. It has no transept, only a long and lofty nave.

This photo was taken from a seaside restaurant in Alegria. Across this strait is Negros Island. We took a break from our church visits and we found this eating place across the church of St. Francis of Assisi that served us with carbonara, calamares and pancit.

Malabuyoc’s church is also a jewel in the south. The facade is still intact with a simple pediment and one single arched door. A six-sided belfry is attached to the 19th century church of San Nicolas de Tolentino.

After the idle town of Malabuyoc is Ginatilan. As we reached the poblacion, the sky had brought in the rain clouds and it started to cover Ginatilan with darkness and swift breeze. Bro Bear took photos of the church’s unique tower.

San Gregorio Magno Church is almost 180 years old. Its bell tower continues to dominate the town’s skyline. Unmindful of the impending shower, Bro Bear and I walked around the church and found a green corner behind the belfry.

The church served as a marker of a town that has yet to start its journey towards development. Ginatilan holds the late pre-hispanic burial grounds in Brgy. Guinaran. It also hosts several old structures and ancestral house which the local government listed and declared as cultural treasures. A block away from the church is the Puerta del Marina.

The church of San Gregorio Magno is still the primary spot to be visited in Ginatilan.

Its tower is 4-sided, made up of five levels with at least an arch window in each side except on the topmost level where circular windows were placed. The single spire pierced this southern town’s skyline.

Bro Bear and I decided to retreat to the car and leave the town before the rain was about to fall. From Ginatilan to Samboan, we drove through several kilometers under the downpour and crooked roads.

Similar to the churches of Moalboal and Badian, the Churh of St. Michael the Archangel sits on a hill overlooking the coastline of Samboan.

This church was built by people from Alegria thru forced labor. Until in 1880, Alegria along with Oslob was pert of Samboan. Several meters from the church and convent is the watchtower, found at the landing of Escalon (Jacob’s Ladder). The old grotto can also be found at the opposite corner.

Part of my roots is in Samboan. It’s the birthplace of my dad. In this very church, dad was christened and given a name which I am also carrying now. Seeing the interior of this neo-classical church, with its huge wooden retablo, the old choir loft and the pulpit, made me think of the days when dad wished and prayed for a better life. His intentions may have been heard here and I thank the heavens for the roots that were anchored and always will be anchored in Samboan.

From Samboan we sped down and up to Alcoy where we had our  ’pit stop’ at Bodo’s Bamboo Bar.

 

(to be concluded)

Fascinated by the Churches – Part Un

I finally had the time to take photos of the old churches in Southern Cebu. While most people decided to celebrate Independence Day with family and friends, I drove down to the southern towns and marvel at the churches that I visited.

Several months ago, I stood in front of the churches in Carcar, Argao, Boljoon and Oslob and I walked around these places of worship to see if there were old buildings and houses as well. 

Some of the old stone houses and buildings have been brought down and were replaced with newer structures.  Churches on the other hand could not be easily replaced.  Thankfully, in almost all the southern towns of Cebu, much of the old forms of these worship sites have been retained.

This is the old church of San Fernando, Cebu. It is dedicated to St. Isidore the Laborer. The parish recently celebrated its 150th anniversary. The church is gothic in style and it made me remember the Sta. Ana church of Molo, Iloilo.

Like most gothic-styled churches,  this church has lancet arches, grouped in three with the center being the main door and two small arches that have steep and pointed openings on the side that traced the niches of the missing religious stone figures.

The San Fernando Church being gothic-styled had its version of the rose windows. The most intricate window could be found at the center of the facade. The church interior on the other hand had been altered, save for the high-pointed arched windows and doors which allowed the light to penetrate and strike the transept and the nave.

I moved on, more than a dozen kilometers away, beyond Carcar and into the poblacion of Sibonga. A typical Spanish colonial set-up, the town center is the plaza that is surrounded with the presidencia (town hall), the escuela, the iglesia and of course the convento.

The town’s church wasbuilt in honor of  La Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Zaragoza. Just like the San Fernando Church, it is gothic-inspired. It’s high and massive; the facade is flanked by two bell towers with plain spires. The facade is rather plain with a rose window being the only detail at its pediment. There were three arches with the center being the main door. At the tip of this arch is a crown of leaves.

The facade may be simple compared to its interior. The church was built according to the design of Fr. Maranon. As the town flourished as the tobacco center in the island, male residents were forced to work on the church’s structure. Several interruptions in the construction were either caused by natural calamities or the revolution.

But in 1907, the church was finally restored. Personally, the most beautiful part of the church is its ceiling. A certain Raymund Francia painted the wooden ceiling in themes of red and brown.  Looking upwards, I remembered similar ceilings in Argao, Carcar and Boljoon.

Supporting the ceiling are several wooden arches.  The two rows of pointed arches cut the nave into 3 parts.  It may not have a transept but the altar and the retablo are crowned with the painting on creation.

In the same compound as the church, a huge convent was constructed like a stone house. It was built in similar way as the church: through forced labor or polo.

The structure has seen better days. The rooms and the halls were emptied of its colonial past. Nothing could be seen at the ground floor, except for the semi-circular wooden details on some of its walls. The office of the parish is in one of the rooms in the ground floor.

Near the side entrance of the convent are flights of stairs leading to the second floor where the priests live.  Lights entering the 3 windows at the landing hit on the wooden floors of the convento’s sala. Huge grilled square windows come face to face with 4 old paintings that were framed in gothic arches. One huge painting on the wall may have been the focal ornament of what used to be the dining hall of the friars.

In Sibonga, the popularity of Simala as a pilgrim site has grown so fast for several years now. It is found at the town’s interior, at Lindogon Hills where the church sits on a huge complex that houses the Marian Monks.

I have made a couple of visits to Simala before and I have seen how the church is continuously constructed and expanded. Even up to now, the church remains unfinished. Several infrastructure and amenities like decent comfort rooms and covered walkways are yet to be installed.

From Sibonga, I drove back to Carcar to re-fuel and hit the road leading to the southwestern towns. The first stop was the Santa Ana Church in Barili.

Barili used to be the biggest parish in the south. It is also one of two secular parishes outside of the Cebu City. Near the main entrance of the church, a billboard of  Santa Ana Shrine Museum was placed at the left side. It showed how huge the structure was. 

The present state of the church is a little different from what it was before. The detached bell tower was gone. A new tower is now attached to the church. One could still see the old stone layers at its base but everything else are plastered with cement.

I thought at first that Barili, being one of the most interesting towns in the island, holds a cluster of old buildings and houses. The encomienda started way before the 17th century. The parish was established in 1614.  Barili used to have a thriving tobacco industry. Somehow, tobacco was replaced now by their most famous product: Shamrock delicacies. Much of its past are reflected though on a dozen or so ancestral houses. A long pre-war building still stands today: the Hospicio de San Jose de Barili was founded by Don Pedro Cui and his sister Benigna.

It was said that the Japanese forces landed in these very shore of Japitan on April 10, 1942. The troops then captured the town and established their Barracks in Barili.

A little down south is the town of Dumanjug. At the poblacion across the public elementary school is the St. Francis of Assisi Church. A lot of visitors claimed that this is one of the most beautiful churches in southwest Cebu and I could see why.

They say that it’s style is neo-classical. The bell tower is almost cylindrical. Taking a closer look, the belfry actually has 12 sides. The pale coral stones add to the aesthetics of the church.

The church was said to be designed and built by local inhabitants. The colonial structure was made of local stones, limestone and native wood.

The founding fathers were said to be Capitan Municipal Pedro Ricamora and the town curate, Father Agustin Melgar.

The town’s name is a story in itself. Dumanjug was a contraction of “Duman” and “nahulog”. Duman was the most famous ”tuba” gatherer in the village. He has had several coconut trees. On the day that the spanish civil guards visited the place, Duman died from a fall from one of the trees.

The Spanish guards asked for the name of the village but the natives could not understand what the visitors were asking. For the lack of answers, they merely responded “si Duman nahulog” (Duman fell).

The visitors thought that it’s the name of the place. Hence, the village was called Dumanjug. A statue near the town’s agora was erected as a marker of the origin of the town’s name.

I was very excited to drop by the poblacion of Moalboal, a town known for its Panagsama Beach, Pescador Island and of course its dive sites. I wanted to see their old church.

Back when I was still young, I remembered how the church looked. It was made of coral stones that were darkened by the salty breeze and moss. The old wooden doors were huge. The church sits on top of hill which was just a few meters from the highway.

This particular visit to Moalboal church made my heart sink. It is quite difficult to understand why the parish priest insisted on bringing the church down. A lot of people say that the church must have to go because the columns and the support are already weak.

The priest opted to build a new church beside the old one with the money collected from the parishioners, not considering the historical and cultural value that the old church has.

The parish priest left the town and was assigned somewhere else, but he would always be remembered for leaving the old church in ruins. From the rubbles of stupidity, only the facade and the altar remained standing. The church floor was still intact.

No one could say what the parish plan to do with what’s left of the church. But there’s an unofficial moratorium on any further demolition of the place of worship. It’s disheartening to take pictures of the destroyed church, knowing fully well that its destruction was not caused by a natural calamity.

Moalboal is left with a marker similar to Macau’s St. Paul Church ruins but it was done in poor taste. The priest may have been possessed by some weird and unheavenly spirit that eventually consumed him in shame. It’s the first time I’ve seen an old Cebu church in this sad state.

(to be continued)