Lay witness to my so-called fundamental existence.

This is the farthest I’ve gone in the island of Leyte. This was once a watch tower, safe-guarding and warning the people against Moro invasion. It has a commanding view of Sogod Bay.

The marker is between Brgy Cantutang and Sto. Rosario, several kilometers north of Tangkaan Point.  It stood not in its original structure and form, though some of the stones were still evident. A spiral staircase leads one a few feet above the beach. A balcony and a concrete cross welcomes you at the landing at the top.

Padre Burgos lies more than 20 kilometers southeast of Maasin City. It is at the mouth of the scenic Sogod Bay.  From the wharf at Tangkaan Point, one could see the silhouette of Limasawa Island.

Tamolayag is the old name of Padre Burgos. The town hosts several dive resorts. The coast it shared with Macrohon in the west and Malitbog in the north is dotted with privately-owned resorts mostly managed by foreigners.

Sogod Bay, though quite remote and less known, is visited by dive enthusiasts from all over the world. Europeans have started operating dive resorts in Padre Burgos. Divers said that the beauty of the bay extends deep into its waters. There are magnificent dive spots where one could see interesting corals, whale sharks, schools of fish and whatnot.

It wouldn’t be long anymore. Sogod Bay will be promoted as a tourist destination in the not so distant time. The sleepy town of Padre Burgos (Tamolayag) will be awakened. The area near Tangkaan Point will be abuzz with tour  activities. And just like the town of Donsol in Sorsogon, Padre Burgos may no longer have to sleep again.

I reached the top of the watchtower. I rather enjoyed the view at this time, when Padre Burgos is still in its slumber. Everything is just what it seems. No pretense, everything is unclad and in its natural form. Should the arms of tourism and economic development arrive in this town, I just hope that they would cause little damage or changes to bay.

I was nudged by the afternoon shadow of the cross. I scaled down the ‘bantayan‘ and head back south to Tangkaan Point. Some people referred to the point as Heaven’s Gate. It could be partly true. For divers, it is the literal jump-off point to several underwater dive walls and reefs.  A lot of divers may have found their own ‘heaven’ under the sea.

For non-divers like me, Tangkaan could be Heavens’ Gate as well.  I drove the length of the wharf  and stopped at its end. At the horizon, the north tip of Limasawa Island was clearly visible.

Although up to this time the site of the first Mass in the Philippines remained in question,  Limasawa cradled the accounts of Pigafetta. This historic and religious event has somehow opened the gates of the Filipinos to the concept of heaven and hell and in-between.

Personally though, it was enough for me to stand at the edge of the wharf that extended southward to the direction of Limasawa Island. Whether or not it is the site of the first Mass in the region, it just stirred my appreciation of our country’s past. Seeing the lonely island from a distance made me wonder what it has to offer.

From Tangkaan, I drove a few kilometers west and reached the popular Manaya Resort.  It’s a few meters off the national highway. Manaya boasts of its grass covered lawns and vivid-colored structures. The swimming pool is of pink and orange combo, the pool slide is painted yellow. The water’s aquatic blue adds to the already colorful set-up.

It may not have a good stretch of beach, Manaya has a commanding view of the open sea. People could just take a dip in the pool that is overlooking a little little rock and cove. It is not an expensive option to ward off the summer heat.

But if you opt for a much better spot to frolick and with better amenities and services, perhaps you must drive a little further to Kuting Reef Resort. It’s an upscale resort, perhaps one of the best that you could find in Southern Leyte. It is at Macrohon town.  Check out their site at ( http://www.kuting-reef.com).

From Macrohon, I drove back to Maasin through the tree-lined, winding coastal road.  I drove the length of RK Kangleon and the parallel street of Tomas Oppus.  I was searching for a coffee shop that has free wi-fi, but I somehow ended at this old spot in the city.

This is the old Maasin cemetery. The stone arch and the perimeter walls screamed its old state. The main entrance seemed to be leaning a bit towards the road.  It bore some interesting details.

The arch was built in 1881 as indicated in the marker.  The cemetery was rather small. Little white crosses seemed to crowd the burial ground. Two structure rose high above them. One, bearing a brown cross, the other, a lady angel.

It puzzled me a bit. This coastal drive led me to a cross at the edge of Sogod Bay and this cross in the middle of an old cemetery seemed to conclude my journey in Southern Leyte.  What significance did these crosses bear?

In silence, I bid goodbye to the souls of the departed and to the dwellers in the cemetery. I started ZeeWee’s engine and hit Kangleon, made two left turns and drove through Tomas Oppus again.

I finally stopped at Villa Romana Hotel.

It’s a welcome spot for someone who would decide to call it a day. The hotel is relatively new, above the ordinary because of its design and the inclusion of capiz shells windows.

There’s a coffee shop at the ground floor. I ordered a slice of carrot cake and bottled cold tea and chose a corner where I could check my mails and update my facebook status. The coffee shop is just adjacent to Kinamot sa Abgao. It’s a restaurant fronting the shores of Maasin.

I could see that this restaurant is a crowd favorite. People come here for the food, beer and the relaxing seaview. I could also see groups of foreigners, backpackers, divers, businessmen, old foreigners with their exotic girlfriends, and families big and small. It is said that the restaurant serve one of the best cooked seafood in town. I wouldn’t know. I haven’t tried their grilled prawns. I was happy with my carrot cake and tuna sandwich.

Just when the sun was about to set, I packed up and left Villa Romana. I needed to go back to Matalom. As I hit the road again, the night slowly crawled it’s way to the city.

The night may have covered the places that I’ve gone to that day but I somehow appreciated the jewels that Southern Leyte has. Beyond Maasin, the towns of Macrohon and Padre Burgos are embellished with gems. Their luster, visible even underwater.

Limasawa remains clad with layers of history. It’s significance continuously reminded us of how the first mass led the Filipinos to embrace the cross and the religion it symbolizes.

Beyond Maasin, opportunity for relaxation and nature appreciation awaits.